Guatemala, like most of Central America has been stuck in a post colonial, feudal hangover for hundreds of years. After Cortez conquered Mexico, he sent a demon named Pedro de Alverado to pacify the Mayans and find gold. De Alverado enslaved the local people with gusto and brought the priesthood along to convert them. The [...]

I love border crossings. I’m always fascinated that culture can change so abruptly within a few feet and it always reminds me that in the 21st century we’re all still huddling in armed camps. These transition zones also are often an opportunity to see a country at its worst. Borders grow their own special ecology [...]